“Elements of Time: Calendrical Complexity and Culinary Continuity in Southern Italy.” In press. Food and the Elements: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium 2025, edited by Mark McWilliams. Sheffield: Equinox.
“Unspeakable Sacred Things Made of Dough: Vermicelli and Pre-Christian Serpentine Symbolism in Southern Italian Ritual Foods.” 2026. Dublin Gastronomy Symposium 2026. https://arrow.tudublin.ie/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1423&context=dgs
“The Democratising Dead: Calendrical Complexity, Commemorative Holidays, and Culinary Continuity across Time.” Food and Communication Conference, Lille, France, Sept 10, 2025.
“Some Mediterranean Culinary Isoglosses: Perry’s ‘Olive Line’ in the Broader Context of the Umami-Enhancer Isogloss Bundle.” 2025. Gardens, Flowers, and Fruit: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2024, edited by Mark McWilliams, 61–69. Sheffield: Equinox.
“Collective Memory, Culinary Continuity, and Solemn Repasts: Lagana, Itria and the History of Pasta in Southern Italy.” 2024. Dublin Gastronomy Symposium 2024: https://arrow.tudublin.ie/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1350&context=dgs.
“The Fata Morgana of Arab Itriyya: Historical Linguistic and Dialectological Perspectives on the Diffusion of Pasta.” 2024. Paper presented at the Institute of Historical Research, School of Advanced Study, University of London, Food History Seminar, February 2024. (In preparation for publication.)
“Magna Grecia, Magna Maccarune: Greco-Italic Contact and the Genesis of Southern Italian Cuisine.” 2024. Paper presented at Food Conference Perugia, 15 June 2024.
“Spaghetti – Never on Sunday…well, almost never: Structure and Rules in an Endocuisine.” 2024. Food Rules & Rituals, Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2023, edited by Mark McWilliams, 50–60. Sheffield: Prospect Books. [pdf]
“The Good as Enemy of the ‘Perfect’: Pseudo-Expertise and Cultural Appropriation in American Food Media.” Paper presented at the Food and Communication Conference, Örebro, Sweden, Sept 13, 2023.
“From ‘peanut weddings’ to ‘beef stands’: The socio-culinary history of Chicago’s ‘Italian beef’.” 2023. Portable Food: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2022, Mark McWilliams, ed. Prospect Books, 67–76. [pdf]
“Cé a bhog mo cháis? The Celtic origins of early Irish cheese-making.” 2022. Proceedings of the Dublin Gastronomy Symposium.[pdf]
“Poetic Wisdom and Food for the ‘Savage Mind’: Greek Tamisos and Provençal Toma as Evidence of Ancient Celtic Cheesemaking” 2022. Food and Imagination: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2021, ed. by Mark McWilliams. [pdf]
“Prejudice, assimilation, and profit: The peculiar history of Italian cookery in the United States.” 2021. Food, Social Change, and Identity. Cynthia Chou & Suzanne Kerner, eds. Palgrave Macmillan, 73–90. [pdf]
“Spaghetti and Meatballs: Reflections on a Misunderstood Dish” 2021. The Chicago Foodcultura Clarion, pp. 4-5. [pdf]
“Culinary change, disruption, and death: Do traditional cuisines have a future?” 2020. Proceedings of the Dublin Gastronomy Symposium. Dublin: Technical University of Dublin. (Amy Dahlstrom, second author) [pdf]
“Neapolitan Pastiera and the Religious Significance of Wheatberries” 2019. In: Seeds: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2018, Mark McWilliams (ed.), pp. 79-88. Prospect Books. [pdf]
“A l’Américaine or à l’Armoricaine? A New World Dish in French Regional Cookery and Haute Cuisine.” Paper presented at the Dublin Gastronomy Symposium, May 2018. [pdf]
“Hopping John and Its Surprising Connection to Jambalaya: Celebrating Survival with Food and Dance.” NY Food Story: The Journal of the Culinary Historians of New York. 2018 Edition. https://www.nyfoodstory.com/articles/hopping-john-and-its-surprising-connection-to-jambalaya/
“Un Vrai Jambalaya – ‘A Real Mess.’ The Complex Western Mediterranean Origins of Louisiana’s Famous Dish” 2017. In: Offal: Rejected and Reclaimed Food: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2016, Mark McWilliams (ed.), pp. 105-120. Prospect Books. [pdf]
“Greeks.” 2017. In: The Chicago Food Encyclopedia, Carol Mighton Haddix, Bruce Kraig, and Colleen Taylor Sen (eds.), pp. 127-130. Urbana: University of Illinois Press. [pdf]
“Italian Beef.” 2017. In: The Chicago Food Encyclopedia, Carol Mighton Haddix, Bruce Kraig, and Colleen Taylor Sen (eds.), pp. 141-142. Urbana: University of Illinois Press. [pdf]
“From Kongri to Diri ak Djondjon: Slavery, Creolization and Culinary Genesis in Saint-Domingue and Independent Haiti.” Paper presented at the Dublin Gastronomy Symposium, 31 May 2016. [pdf of pre-conference version]
“Defining ‘Cuisine’: Communication, Culinary Grammar and the Typology of Cuisine.” 2016. In: Food and Communication: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2015. Mark McWilliams (ed.), pp. 105-121. Totnes: Prospect Books. [pdf]
“The Merchants of Genoa and the Diffusion of Southern Italian Pasta Culture in Europe.” 2015. In: Food and Markets: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2014. Mark McWilliams (ed.), pp. 54-64. Totnes: Prospect Books. [pdf]
“Italy.” 2015. In: Ethnic American Food Today: A Cultural Encyclopedia, Lucy Long (ed.), pp. 314-323. Lanham, MD: Rowman & Little. [pdf]
“Carnival.” 2015. In: The Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets. Darra Goldstein (ed.), pp. 114-116. Oxford: Oxford University Press. [pdf]
“Holiday Sweets.” 2015. In: The Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets. Darra Goldstein (ed.), pp. 333-336. Oxford: Oxford University Press. [pdf]
Short entries on “Crescent” (pp. 197-198), “Perugina” (p. 524) and “Tutti frutti” (p. 749). 2015. In: The Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets. Darra Goldstein (ed.). Oxford: Oxford University Press.
“The Shape of Things to Come: Bottles, Glasses and Contrasting Beer Cultures in Belgium and the United States.” 2014. In: Food and Material Culture: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2013. Mark McWilliams (ed.). pp. 80-89. Totnes: Prospect Books. [pdf]
“Lasagna: A Layered History.” 2013. In: Stuffed and Wrapped Foods: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2012. Mark McWilliams (ed.), pp. 94-104. Totnes: Prospect Books. [pdf]
“Linguistics and Food Studies: Structural and Historical Connections.” 2012. In: Routledge International Handbook of Food Studies. Ken Albala (ed.), pp. 146-58. [pdf]
“Chi vuol godere la festa, digiuni la vigilia: On the Relationship between Fasting and Feasting.” 2012. In: Celebration: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery, 2011. Mark McWilliams (ed.), 66-75. Totnes: Prospect Books. [pdf]
“Continuity in Culinary Aesthetics in the Western Mediterranean: Roman Garum and Liquamen in the Light of Local Survival of Fermented Fish Seasonings in Japan and the Western Mediterranean.” 2011. In: Cured, Fermented and Smoked Foods: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2010. Helen Saberi (ed.), pp. 66-75. Totnes: Prospect Books. [pdf]
“The Anatolian Origins of the Words ‘Olive’ and ‘Oil’ and the Early History of Oleïculture.” 2010. In: Food and Language: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2009. Richard Hosking (ed.), 52-61. Totnes: Prospect Books. [pdf]
“The Bitter – and Flatulent – Aphrodisiac: Synchrony and Diachrony of the Culinary Use of Muscari Comosum in Greece and Italy.” 2009. In: Vegetables: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2008. Susan R. Friedland (ed.), pp. 46-55. Totnes: Prospect Books. [pdf]
“From Necessity to Virtue: The Secondary Uses of Bread in Italian Cookery.” 2008. In: Food and Morality: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2007. Susan R. Friedland (ed.), pp. 57-69. Totnes: Prospect Books. [pdf]
“On Spaghetti Alla Carbonara and Related Dishes of Central and Southern Italy.” 2007. In: Eggs in Cookery: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2006. Richard Hosking (ed.), pp. 36-47. Totnes: Prospect Books. [pdf]
“Western Mediterranean Vegetable Stews and the Integration of Culinary Exotica.” 2006. In: Authenticity in the Kitchen: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2005. Richard Hosking (ed.), pp. 132-45. Totnes: Prospect Books. [pdf]